The Lost Stone Fortress of the South

July 6, 2006

"Cotabato City….binomba!…" This was the headlines of every war-hungry media programs during the all-out war campaign in 2000 by President Estrada. Mindanao was bothered by series of bombings that wreck havoc over the lives of Mindanaoans. But that was 6 years ago and everything is settled for now…unless the peace talks are successful or the JI had been pacified.

It was estrangely alluring to me to go to Cotabato City…a place evaded by many people who have no business with the place or even paranoid tourists and travelers. And speaking of paranoia, whenever this place is mentioned, fear and pessimism occupies everyone outside of Mindanao. Its a no-man’s land, or in this case, a city.

Negative impressions were imprinted in this city of more than 100,000. It was the capital of the Empire Province of Cotabato, once the largest province in the counrty. A city with rich history and pride. The Stone Fortress of Mindanao.

Passing through one of the most well-paved concrete and asphalt roads in the country, the L300 zoomed passed by Isulan and moved towards no-man’s land. Sparse population, agricultural activity in contrast with a big palace in Shariff Aguak is what Maguindanao can be best described.

Cotabato seemed to be so isolated from the rest of the world. Its so hard to go here honestly. Trips from Manila is less frequent than any other cities in Mindanao. Only few bus companies go to Cotabato and the main port is 15 kilometers. Roads are heavily guarded by the Army and the MILF, it does gives you the creeps whenever there are inspections that are ongoing. Goin north of the city was the heavily-bombarded Buldon-Barira area where Camp Abubakar was and to th east and south by the Tiduray Mountains and the wetlands.

Cotabato City was seen to be one of the fastest growing city in Mindanao as the Land of Promise was opened for Christian Settlers from Luzon and Visayas. It was an entry port for most of the travelers who are going central. The port teems with life as the old people say. Business transactions were being made here. Migrants from different places in the Philippines merged here along with the natives, abd because the population became so mixed, it is the only Tagalog-speaking city in Mindanao.

Cotabato was far progressive from Davao City back in the 50’s. What it seems to be a busy mecca in the south that had supposedly manifested homogenity between two age-old foes, the Christians of the north and the native Muslims and Lumads in the south, was shattered by the war that has been gearing on for generations. It had left Cotabato isolated from the rest of Mindanao…And was left behind.

Small streets which are not clogged with jeepneys and tricycles ply the city. It is hilly with a mild tropical climate. Surrounded by the two estuaries of Rio Grande de Mindanao or Pulangi, Cotabato is swampy with a hill imposing over downtown, PC Hill, where the name got its name…Kutang Bato or Kota Wato.

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